Churches, Pyramids, Volcanoes and Pure Colonial Charm: Cholula

Posted on September 23, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

Churches, Pyramids, Volcanoes and Pure Colonial Charm: Cholula
Just this week I posted a picture of one of Mexico’s most famous volcanoes – Itzaccihuatl, the one that looks like a sleeping woman. Now, this volcano is right next to another one, Popocatepetl, which recently had a small eruption. Some photographer captured a picture of a church on a hilltop with the erupting volcano behind it; the picture is so beautiful that I decided to make it my computer wallpaper.

Here’s the funny thing; I didn’t realize until today that I’ve actually visited this site!

This discovery has brought to mind another great place to visit in central Mexico – the town of Cholula.

Where is it?

Cholula is a town which has been swallowed up by metropolitan area of the larger (colonial) city of Puebla. It would be misleading to say “suburb” since it’s much more like a town and not at all like the modern idea of a suburb. This means it’s about 2 hours away from Mexico City, just on the other side of the famous volcanoes I’ve mentioned.

The colonial beauty

Like the city of Puebla, Cholula is full of pure colonial charm, with many churches and buildings with colonial architecture; the town is simply a lovely place to walk around and enjoy the scenery. There are also good restaurants.

Mystery and Magic

While there are many sites worth seeing and writing about in Cholula, I want to focus specifically on the one I mentioned at the top – the church, called Nuestra Senora de los Remedios, on the hilltop with the view of the volcano (more correctly volcanoes, since besides those two, you can see 2 others further in the distance.)

First of all, it’s worth noting that it’s actually not on a hilltop. If you look at any picture of the church and “hill,” you will notice that the sides are very straight and almost flat; what appears to be a hill at a first glance is actually a pyramid that has been overgrown. The church was built on top of the pyramid!
The pyramid was from a more ancient civilization in the area, and was actually abandoned around the 12th century; by the time the Spanish arrived and built the church, the pyramid was long out of use and overgrown.

In recent decades, the bottom part of the pyramid was excavated, allowing you to see the bottom steps, and revealing a large network of secret tunnels in the bottom part of the pyramid! The top has not been excavated because of the church on top, which is also a treasure!

The Church

After you check out the fascinating pyramid, you can make your way up the “hillside” to the church (walking only, 48 steps, 850 ft upward!).
First of all, the views of the volcanoes are stunning! You can look out over the green, patchwork countryside with the majestic volcanoes towering in the distance.

The views of the city of Puebla are also amazing. (Here’s a challenge; count how many churches you can see. If you can visit all of them, you’ll know the entire city, and have seen some of the most beautiful architecture to be found!)

The church itself is spectacular. The orange painting outside with white trim and elegant domes and arches is true to the best of colonial style. In the interior, the painting, gold work, images, statues and structure are all very original and very beautiful. It’s a place where you can just stand in silence, absorbing it!
It’s easy to see why the church, like the pyramid in ancient times before it, is one of the region’s most important pilgrimage sites.

If you are traveling in central Mexico, I would definitely recommend a trip to Puebla and the town of Cholula! Among the many sights you will see in your life, few will be as specular is this one.

-by Bea Lozano

The Hidden Magic of Guanajuato, Mexico

Posted on September 3, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

Recently, we’ve started exploring some of Mexico’s “Hidden Gems” – places that absolutely fabulous to visit, but in the international picture, are entirely off the radar.

The central Mexican city of Guanajuato is one such place.

The Magical City

With beautiful, classic old homes, and alleyways so narrow that two people leaning out two opposite windows could kiss, this city is not only very beautiful, but also very romantic. The hill landscape and and the seemingly orderless roads add an element of the unknown and discovery. There are also the classic old churches and gardens with bright flowers:

The city is also fmous for its mines and mummies:

A Beautiful State

Besides the beautiful city, there are many amazing places to see throughout the state, which has the same name. These include the town where the Mexican War of Independence started (Dolores Hidalgo,) old monasteries and a huge statue of Jesus on hill (called “Cierro de Cubilete”) just north of the city of Guanajuato:

A Touch of the International

While I’ve said that Guanajuato is largely off the international radar, there are a couple of striking exeptions. One is the town of San Miguel de Allende, which is a beautiful colonial town that is home to between 8000 and 12,000 expats, mostly Americans. This is one of the largest community of Americans in Mexico, and they have been largely responsible for restoring and keeping up the authentic colonial beauty of the town.

Another exception is that in 2012, the pope visted the City of Guanajuato and gave a Mass at the bottom of the hill where the huge state of Jesus; since he was old, he couldn’t travel to the top:

Some Americans will be familiar with San Miguel de Allende or the pope’s visit to El Cierro de Cubilete, but even most of these will be unaware that these are located within the State of Guanajuato, or of the riches to be seen and experienced here!

I would certainly recommend Guanajuato as a top option for a place to visit on your travels around Mexico – or even to live in for those interested in a small colonial town like San Miguel.

-by Bea Lozano

Dining above the Narrow Streets of Guanajuato – #WordlessWednesday

Posted on August 28, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

-by Bea Lozano
Livin’ Tulum Video – TeeToTum Hotel Interview

Mexico’s Hidden Gems: Michoacan and Morelia Are Central Mexico’s Finest

Posted on August 15, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

Mexico has many wonderful places that almost everyone knows about – like Cancun, the Riviera Maya and Puerto Vallarta. Yet, there are also dozens upon dozens of “hidden gems” and “best kept secrets” that if you were to visit, you would swear that some mistake had been made in the international travel agencies.

Morelia, the beautiful colonial city, and the state of Michoacan of which it is the capital in central Mexico, are two examples that we’ve written about before. But to give you a glimpse of how people react to their first vist, I just found this great blog post called “The Best Place You Have Never Heard Of;” this place is – you guessed it – Michoacan.

He starts of:

“I don’t know why the state of Michoacan in Mexico isn’t more popular – well yeah, I guess I do know. American’s get 5 vacation days a year and want to spend them blitzed on a beach, while the Euros are busy dancing to terrible electronic music mixed by some greasy hipster wearing skinny jeans in Ibiza, but regardless – the Michoacan is way underrated. And by underrated, I mean it isn’t rated at all.”

Now, if that rings a bell with you already, you can guess that Morelia and Michoacan are probably your kind of place. He then continues:

“The Michoacan state really has it all, from untapped colonials cities to ancient P’urhépechan Ruins (kind of like the Aztecas) resting on hilltops revealing panoramic views of lakes. Most of the Monarch Butterflies migrate to the reserves throughout the state because it is obviously the perfect place to make love for days on end. And when the hunger sets in from that marathon, Michocan’s city of Uruapan happens to be the capital of California’s most ubiquitous beloved vegetable – the Avocado. Lastly, and most notably, the Michoacan is missing the tourist attraction I hate the most: other white tourists. I spent over 10 days in the state and didn’t see a single other white person, which for me, is like a warm bubble bath while listening to Kenny G- because traveling these days requires wading through a swath of tourist-villes. But there is plenty of love to go around in the state of Michoacan – not only from the butterfly mating but all of these happenings are spread across mountains, beaches, lakes, and most importantly, areas that harvest Mezcal”

So, you can tell that Turner (the writer) isn’t a big fan of finding other tourists! I certainly have nothing against being with other tourists, and I love talking to and learning the stories of my fellow expats, the point is this; Michoacan is off the radar, despite being a very beautiful and interesting part of Mexico.

Read the entire honest and entertaining account here.

-by Thomas Lloyd

Travel Tip – The City of Oaxaca Reflects Mexico’s Colonial Beauty

Posted on August 13, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

Whether you’re looking for a less-known choice for retirement in Mexico or not, it’s always good to get a glimpse of some of the beautiful locations throughout Mexico; the travel options never run short here in Mexico, and if you’re looking for something new, you’ll always find it!

At a blog called gadventures.com, I found this great post about Oaxaca. Take a look at some of the pictures:

We’ve written about the Oaxaca culture fair in Playa del Carmen, but going there directly is, of course, always the best way to go!

The city of Oaxaca is yet another colonial gem, again with its own regional variation, distinct from what you’ll find in central Mexico, or on the Yucatan Peninsula, for instance. Here’s an excerpt from the story:

“Oaxaca’s historic city center is a photographer’s dream. Colorfully painted Spanish colonial buildings and churches line the narrow stone streets.

“Like Mexico City and Puebla, it’s compact enough to walk, yet it can take days to fully appreciate all the details and nuances. One need only pick a direction, and wander, eyes wide open, to find interesting angles.

“The center, along with the nearby archaeological site of Monte Albán, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

“Landmarks not to miss include the Former Monastery of Santo Domingo, with its gilded interior, the adjacent Cultural Museum of Oaxaca next door, which features a fabulous turquoise-covered human skull, and Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, located in the Zocalo (main plaza).”

(Read the rest here.)

The state of Oaxaca is also the most famous area for production of mescal, a stronger-flavored sister to the world famous tequila.

The city is in the interior of the state, but the Pacific beaches are only a few hours away. They are fairly undiscovered and offer a quiet getaway off the beaten track – especially off the “international” beaten track.

—

-by Bea Lozano

Travel Tips – The Charm and Beauty of Mexico City

Posted on July 25, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

When I tell people that Mexico City is a great place to travel to, they usually give me a funny look – like they think it’s a joke, just waiting for me to start laughing.

“Isn’t that a big, ugly city, full of smog, litter, traffic, graffiti, poverty and crime?” is what runs through most people’s minds. “It’s not safe, is it?”

Mexicans as much as anyone else have a very negative image of the city (compare to how most Americans feel about New York, or Canadians about Toronto.) But contrary to what people think, it really is a good place to travel.

You’ll notice that this page speaks highly of its travel potential. This travel site ranks it as Mexico’s #1 place to travel to, safely.

Balanced View

I love Mexico City. That’s where I’m from. But I think there’s more to it than that. At the same time, I want to be honest; some of the ugliest places I’ve seen in any city are in that city. Yet, blocks away there are some of the most beautiful and interesting places you’ll find anywhere – even compared to Europe. These are some of the reasons I recommend the city.

Colonial Charm – The old downtown of Mexico City (“Centro Historico”) with its splendid old churches and blocks upon blocks of beautiful Mexican architecture has been very well preserved and I would say it holds out well against any other colonial city, and even the charming European cities everyone goes on about.

Unique Culture – Walking around downtown Mexico City, you really feel something different. While the city is busy, it’s also relaxed and enjoys life. There are men playing guitar in the parks, and bands with young and old people dancing on the weekends. The huge city square has been home to some of the most massive outdoor concerts of all styles. And then there’s Garibaldi Square with its mariachis …

History, Museums, Art – If you love fine culture and learning about history, you will love Mexico City. It has an excellent Museum of Anthropology, and the Bellas Artes fine art museum, among many, many similar items. There are also many religious sites, like the famous Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

Parks and Canals – Inside and just outside of the city there are parks of all sizes, ranging from fairly pure nature and authentic Mexican countryside to very elegantly landscaped urban “park-ettes” ideal for sitting down with an ice cream. One of the most famous parks (Chapultapec) has a castle in the middle of it. There are also the famous canals of Xolchimilco in the south of the city where long boats offer both quiet, relaxing rides, and “parties on the go.”

Food – In Mexico City, you can find food from any part of Mexico; but as all people from the city point out, it has its own unique style. There are also the city’s favorites, like tacos “al pastor” which offer meat similar to that found on doner kebabs.

Low Cost of Everything!! People who live in the city will tell you that part of its charm is that you can go out with only a dollar in your pocket (just enough for the subway and bus) and still fully enjoy an active day out in the city. Street music, art displays, shows and much more are open for the public. Museums and galleries are free on certain days. While you’ll want to enjoy the finer points of the city, you’ll find that your expenses in the city tend to be low – even compared to tourist locations in Mexico!

The Weather – I always tell people that weather in Mexico City is nearly perfect. Imagine something like late summer, but all year round. The days are sunny and warm (not hot!) and the nights cool off nicely. The rainy season can bring heavy downpours, but even these usually last for only an hour or so, and clear up quickly.

So, in conclusion, I wouldn’t recommend Mexico City as a place for expats to live (although it is in fact home to many who happily live there.) But I would most certainly recommend a visit. Plan your trip, investigate the main attractions (there are many – you’ll have to pick and choose!) and stick to the tourist areas. You’ll probably wonder why you never got to know this incredible city!

-by Bea Lozano

In Uruapan, Michoacan, Bright and Lively Festivals Are Celebrated All Year

Posted on April 29, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

This is a guest post from John Glaab, an real estate expert in La Paz and in Mexico’s international connections. He also has strong interest in the city of Morelia in central Mexico.

All year long there are festivals occurring in Uruapan, near Morelia. The two most noteworthy and that fill the hotels are; Noche de Muertos (Night of the Dead) and Semana Santa (Holy Week). The first is November 1 and the second is Holy Week which includes Palm Sunday and Easter.

Michoacan is the center of the part pagan, part Christian celebration of Noche de Muertos (Night of the Dead). Tzintzuntzin the capital of the Tarascan empire is especially important, but Ofrendas (altars) are also abundant in the streets of Patzcuaro and Uruapan. For the past three years, Uruapan has also had a celebration of velas. (candles) More than 10,000 candles adorn the Centro Historica and the main plaza.

During Semana Santa, the artisans fill the four block long plaza in Uruapan. This year more than 1,200 came to display and sell their work. Representing 73 communities, the artisans came with 1 million pieces. These ranged from copper works of art (Santa Clara del Cobre) to fine guitars. (Paracho)

There were two parades during the week. One the parade of the artesanos and the other the parade of the aguadores. (Water carriers) The later in rational costume carried water from the Rio Cupatitzio, to the Inmaculada church for blessing. Of course both had musical groups in the processions.

You may also wish to read about:

-by John Glaab

Let’s Go to Valladolid, Again! Gallery Part 3 – Monastery

Posted on March 6, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

Yesterday and the day before I posted some pictures of the main square and various sights around town in Valladolid, a beautiful, quaint and very non-touristy colonial Mayan town in Yucatan. (See Let’s Go to Valladolid, Again! Gallery Part 2 – Around Town.)

Something you’ll note if you go to Valladolid, as is the case with many colonial and old European towns, it’s surprising how many churches and chapels there are in a town that you can probably walk across in half an hour (and I don’t mean just the downtown – that’s from one end of town to the other!)

On Monday, I put up some pictures of the main church. Today I am going to share some pictures of the town’s large monastery (which I believe is still used as a monastery, which is rather rare for colonial Mexican monasteries and convents) and the surrounding neighborhood:

Retirement Travel in Mexico

It’s rare to find a town that is so charming and authentic, yet almost completely undiscovered that is so close to major tourist centers like Playa del Carmen, Cancun, Merida and Chichen Itza (in fact, it is smack dab in the middle of all of these, and only between 30 min and 2 hours away from each of them.) This is truly an undiscovered gem and great place for retirement travel in Mexico.

TOPMexicoRealEstate.com; Mexico’s Leading Network of Specialists for Finding and Purchasing Mexican Properties Safely

Let’s Go to Valladolid, Again! Gallery Part 2 – Around Town

Posted on March 5, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

Yesterday, I shared some pictures of Valladolid’s main church and town square. (See Let’s Go to Valladolid, Again! Gallery Part 1 – Church & Town Square.) Today, I’m going to continue with pictures of various scenes from around this charming, colonial Mayan town. As I said yesterday, the town is not touristy, but it gains it’s charm from being more of the “real Mexico” with old-time shoemakers, local butcher shops tended by mustached men with cowboy hats and meat cleavers and the like.

First of all, the hotel where we stayed. All of the hotels are smaller, local, colonial inns that are as charming as the town itself:

Retirement Travel in Mexico

And now, just some random scenes from around town:

Retirement Travel in Mexico

Retirement Travel in Mexico
(By the way, anyone who knows Mexico will know that “Palacio de Hiero” is an nice, modern, upscale department store – I wonder if they had permission to use the name?!)

Retirement Travel in Mexico

Tomorrow will be the final post in this series with pictures of the monastery.

TOPMexicoRealEstate.com; Mexico’s Leading Network of Specialists for Finding and Purchasing Mexican Properties Safely

Let’s Go to Valladolid, Again! Gallery Part 1 – Church & Town Square

Posted on March 4, 2013 by Thomas Lloyd

I love the colonial, Mayan town of Valladolid. I’ve written about it before (Mexico Retirement Places to See – A Quaint, Colonial Mayan Town.) It’s definitely a place I can see myself visiting more often when I retire, since it’s just such a relaxing and beautiful place to be. Valladolid is small but it as nice restaurants, cafes and hotels. It’s very inexpensive, even by Mexican standards, and it’s completely safe.

Part of the reason for this is that it’s off the radar for tourism. In fact, it’s rare to find international tourists or even larger-scale national tourism, although a handful of tour buses now make stops as tour providers realize how charming and appealing the quiet, unaltered life of this authentic Mayan town is.

I went back again a few weeks ago, and got more pictures, which I’ll share over the next three days. Today, I’ll share pictures of the main church and the town square. First, the church:

Retirement Travel in Mexico